Shimmering La Parguera Bay is anything but easy to find. A series of narrow roads wind around mountain corners through Puerto Rico’s wild southwest, where jungle houses cling to cliffs and none of the streets have names. Despite my reasonably competent navigation skills, I’m pretty sure we’ve passed the same intersection three times. We stopped. I check my map again, “I think that’s that way.”

I’m not lost. I just don’t know if it’s possible to get where I want to go. Maybe the glow-in-the-dark bay just doesn’t want to be found. But I am determined. I abandon my misleading directions and follow my instincts. With the orange wash of afternoon in the sky to the right, we head south and finally, as the sun sinks towards the sea, we descend from the hills to a town that hugs the coast.

Most of the stores are closed. It’s not tourist season yet. We park in a muddy lot and wander along the sidewalk looking through dusty windows at tailored cotton clothing and pharmaceutical items as we keep an eye on the pier. Twilight has fallen. I think we are going in the wrong direction. Incandescence spills into the street from the open door of a restaurant. We stopped and ordered dumplings stuffed with pulp and onion. The owner, a gentleman, refills our rum and cokes himself and gives us the inside scoop on where to find a boat.

An hour later, we are standing in the dark at the end of a pier. Bungalows on stilts stretch along the shoreline and the warm light from the living rooms dances on the water. A handful of intrepid travelers join us as we board a fiberglass tour boat. Soon we glide through twisted mangroves and past islets where ghostly white herons nest in the trees.

We pass under a leafy archway and into a secluded cove. The captain turns off the engine and then turns off the light. My eyes begin to adjust. The clouds move over the stars in a moonless sky. The water is black.

We’re here to see a bioluminescent bay. I’m not sure what to expect. Perhaps the entire surface of the deep begins to glow at any moment, illuminated by billions of microscopic dinoflagellates. I wait, almost holding my breath. Then, to my surprise, our young first mate, Alejandro, removes his shirt and slides out to sea.

A brilliant blue, swirling watery stardust follows her every stroke. I am paralyzed. I understand why the US Marine Protected Area list includes this bay. It is a treasure, a rare brilliant gem. As I watch the web show, I reflect on the splendid diversity of our brilliant blue planet. I am also aware that the overuse of waterways has already reduced the scintillation phenomenon and hope solutions are found and bioluminescence survives for generations to come. Perhaps, in the long run, it is a good thing that La Parguera is not easy to find. I thought there was something wrong with my map. Maybe it works fine.

Information, please

GET THERE

Fly into Rafael Hernández Airport (BQN) in Aguadilla. It is on the west side of Puerto Rico and offers easier access to La Parguera. Prices are comparable to San Juan.

Directions to La Parguera: Follow Interstate Highway PR 2E along the coast for 29 km. Turn right at CII Los Vélez and immediately turn left at PR 114 and go 13.6 km. Turn… Oh, just check out the Google Maps link. I know it sounds complicated and it sounds like it would be easier to stay on the interstate a bit longer and then go through town. It is not. The streets are not marked and you will wander in circles. Trust Google and you will get there. Trust me. It’s worth the trip.

THE BIOLUMINESCENT BAY

Like most places in Puerto Rico, if you want to head out on the bay, just walk down to the pier at sunset and look for Johnny’s Boats. Things are pretty casual and you should expect to wait. But don’t worry, you’re on island time!

WHEN TO GO

It is definitely better to go in the early afternoon on a moonless night. As long as it doesn’t rain, the boats run all year round.

WHERE TO STAY

Villa Parguera is right on the water and hosts live Latin bands on Saturday nights.

The affordable guest house La Jamaca is located just steps from the water.

WHERE TO EAT

Best advice… look for the crowds. Wherever you see a group of locals, you know it’s a good place.

MORE FUN STUFF

Go scuba diving or snorkeling with West Divers. Diving in the Wall of La Parguera. Drop from a thousand feet to the bottom of the sea!

Go deep sea fishing and catch blue marlin, tuna, wahoo, grouper, dorado, trevally, barracuda. Again, just head to the pier. Ask for Captain Mickey, a marine biologist who really knows his stuff.